In a classic ceviche, the mixture of lime juice, salt and flavourings in which the fish is marinated is known as leche de tigre, "milk of the tiger". Drink it when you've eaten the fish and the sweet potato.
Feb 22, 2012 2:30amBy Diego Muñoz
- 15 mins preparation
- 10 mins cooking
- Serves 4
Ceviche, cebiche, seviche, sebiche, se-vish-ay: no matter how it's spelt or pronounced, we all know what I'm talking about. The dish based on raw fish marinated in lime juice is a symbol, a flagship, of my country, Peru. Peru is full of cevicherias, places that specialise in ceviche. In the markets, next to the beach, in small restaurants and large restaurants, in little tents on the street, in restaurants hidden behind closed doors, even in garages used as restaurants, ceviche is part of everyday life. There's a cevicheria at every price - something for everybody.
The origins of ceviche are controversial, but it's generally agreed that it was first created by fishermen, which explains why it's popular in coastal areas throughout Central and South America. Peruvian ceviche is a product of many influences: fish from the Peruvian sea; limes of the type grown on the north coast of Peru, known as limón sutil, originally from Asia; red onions brought to South America by the Spaniards; and chillies from the Andes and the rainforest.
Every region and every family in Peru has its own version of the dish, influenced by the ingredients that are available from one place to another, by family traditions, by the advice of local fishermen and by the celebrity chefs on Peruvian television. Even far from the sea, the Andes and the rainforest areas have their own variations. In Lima, we include fresh boiled corn, coriander, fried dry corn, sweet potato and iceberg lettuce along with the seafood. In Peru, the fish most commonly used are lenguado (sole), corvina, pejerry (silverside) and bonito. We also use various types of rock fish, as well as sea urchin, octopus and black mud clams. At home and in Australia, I prefer to use firm-textured fish, but the most important thing is that it must be very fresh. (In Peru, back in the days before refrigeration, ceviche was eaten only for lunch, because the fish was fresh only in the morning, and in some places that belief is still held.)
There are two schools of thought on how long the fish should be marinated in the lime juice. Traditionally, the fish was "cooked" in the acid for quite some time, but today it's pretty much eaten as it's made. Even a short marinating time means the proteins on the surface of the fish coagulate slightly and the fish appears to "cook", an effect caused by the difference in acidity between the lime and the fish flesh. It's important not to press the limes too hard when you're juicing them, because you don't want to release any bitterness from the pith.
In a good ceviche, the fish is full of flavour, the lime juice mixture is nice and thick, the onions are crunchy, the chilli is present but not overwhelming, the sweet potato provides sweetness, and the cancha (fried Andean corn) provides more crunchiness. It should be eaten with a spoon so that you have a little of everything in each mouthful. The biggest mistake you can make with ceviche is to allow the acid of the lime juice to dominate. In a perfect ceviche, there is a balance of salt, acid, onion, umami, and the rounded, fresh flavour and firm texture of the fish.
Ingredients
- 1 sweet potato, cut into 1cm-thick rounds
- 30 gm caster sugar
- 1 star anise
- ½ cinnamon quill
- 100 ml lime juice, plus extra to taste
- 70 ml fish stock
- 50 gm white-fleshed fish trimmings
- 5 cm piece celery stalk
- 10 gm (2cm piece) ginger, coarsely chopped
- 1 garlic clove
- 1 small Spanish onion, thinly sliced
- 2 coriander sprigs, plus 1 cup coriander
- ½ small green chilli
- 200 gm Palmers Island mulloway, cut into 2cm-thick pieces (see note)
- ½ small birdseye chilli, seeds removed, finely chopped
Method
Main
1
Place sweet potato in a saucepan with sugar, star anise, cinnamon and 1 litre water, bring to a simmer over medium heat and cook until tender (5-10 minutes). Drain and set aside.
2
Blend lime juice, stock, fish trimmings, celery, ginger, garlic, 20gm onion and 1 tsp fine sea salt in a blender until smooth.
3
Add coriander sprigs and green chilli and blend until finely chopped.
4
Pass through a fine sieve and refrigerate until chilled (20-30 minutes).
5
Combine mulloway and a pinch of salt in a chilled bowl and stir well. Add lime juice mixture to fish, then squeeze in extra lime juice to taste and toss to combine.
6
Meanwhile, soak remaining onion in iced water (5 minutes).
7
Drain onion, add to ceviche with remaining coriander and birdseye chilli, toss to combine, adjust seasoning to taste, then serve in a bowl with all the juices, with the sweet potato on the side.
Notes
Note Palmers Island mulloway, which is farmed in waters near Yamba in northern New South Wales, is available from select fishmongers. If it's unavailable, substitute another white, firm-fleshed fish.
The Latest from Gourmet Traveller
Recipe CollectionsEaster desserts that aren't hot cross buns
Mar 11, 2024
Recipe CollectionsRabbit recipes for Easter
Mar 11, 2024
Recipe CollectionsAll the Easter recipes you need
Mar 11, 2024
Vivid Sydney’s food program is back for 2024
Mar 10, 2024
DestinationsBeyond laneways: A peek into some of Melbourne's most luxe Airbnb stays
Mar 10, 2024
See AlsoButterbeer Recipe (Harry Potter)Travel NewsVirgin Australia is offering 30% off flights to 36 destinations in flash sale
Mar 10, 2024
EntertainingGozney's new Arc pizza oven here to heat up the alfresco entertaining game?
Mar 07, 2024
This is how women do it: Leading women in restaurants
Mar 07, 2024
Drinks NewsTop drops: An expert's best tannic wines for March
Mar 07, 2024
Travel NewsTurkish Airlines announces direct flights between Melbourne and Istanbul from March 2024
Mar 06, 2024
EntertainingYour seasonal guide to luxury Easter eggs, bunnies and hampers
Mar 05, 2024
Food NewsNoma returns to Japan for 10-week Noma Kyoto residency in 2024
Mar 05, 2024
Restaurant NewsNoma, the 'world's best restaurant', is closing in 2025
Mar 05, 2024
Restaurant ReviewsPipis Kiosk: Restaurant review
Mar 05, 2024
Recipe CollectionsOur most popular recipes for autumn
Mar 05, 2024
Travel NewsSeven crossbody bags that make slick travel companions
Mar 03, 2024
Entertaining5 wine fridges to store your vinos for entertaining and longevity
Feb 27, 2024
EntertainingSix quality steak knives that even vegetarians will find use for
Feb 27, 2024
Recipe Collections5 simple co*cktails for every occasion
Feb 27, 2024
